Cymru Culture

Fashion and Designers / Ffasiwn a Dylunwyr

Prêt-à-porter; London Fashion Week A/W 17

(March 01, 2017)

Isabelle Herring

London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

The best and worst

LFW AW17 House of Holland catwalk showHouse of Holland catwalk LFW AW17
image: © House of Holland, photographer Mitchell Sams

London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017 took place from 9th to 16th February 2017. The overall trends for the current season include the likes of minimalist fashion, as well as sports luxe, urban street style and 1990s grunge. Other key trends evident for this season include bright colour-blocking and controversial political statements being used within collections. Another catwalk trend this season was the breakthrough of diversity, in terms of the ethnicity, age and size of the models being used; finally pointing to a revolution in terms of equality within the fashion industry.

The most prominent colour schemes within this Autumn/Winter collection definitely included more neutral tones as well as dark tones; black, burgundy, deep purples and greens. Featured prints were mainly repeat prints, which were very vintage in style. Typical prints of the season include tartan, baroque type prints, florals, checkerboard style prints, stripes, stars and snake print. The main fabrics used were silk satin, faux fur and cotton. Two of my favourite designer collections from this season were Billie Jacobina and House of Holland. My least favourites; Laurence & Chico and Maison the Faux.

House of Holland collection LFW AW17 House of Holland collection LFW AW17 House of Holland collection LFW AW17

House of Holland collection LFW AW17
image: © House of Holland, photographer Mitchell Sams

The overall style of Billie Jacobina’s collection was fairly form-fitting in general, with a minimal accent of pleating and ruffling within the outfits. Overall, the collection's feel was very bold, using pastel colours instead of brights. It also had a slight athletic feel. Most of the prints used had a very artsy feel to them, with brush strokes and ink splatter designs a constant, used as well as illustrative pieces. The main colours used within Jacobina’s collection are pink, purple, yellow, blue and black tones. Common fabrics include: tulle; lycra; chiffon; and polyester.

LFW AW17 Henry Holland
Henry Holland, designer House of Holland at LFW AW17
image: © House of Holland, photographer Mitchell Sams

House of Holland’s Autumn/Winter exhibition had a really cool and edgy vibe. Common themes within his collection were clashing pastel prints with funky motifs, which had a similar type of text to the Barbie doll motif. Top types of clothing featured were oversized faux fur coats and bold-style tops. In addition, long form-fitting dresses were apparent, as well as layering, flared trousers and fringing. Typical colours for this collection include pastel tones, such as baby pink, lilac and light blue as well as the darker shades of khaki and navy blue. The main prints within Holland’s collection include: checkerboard style prints; snakeskin; zigzags; stripes; and stars. Slight hints of current style trends are apparent within the exhibition including corseting, bomber style jackets, faux fur coats, tartan skirts and printed denim. This collection seemed a lot more vibrant in terms of colour combinations and print placement than the Billie Jacobina collection.

Holland’s collection was definitely my favourite out of the two.

House of Holland collection LFW AW17 House of Holland collection LFW AW17 LFW AW17 32_ISI_8560
House of Holland collection LFW AW17 House of Holland collection LFW AW17 LFW AW17 11_ISI_7862

House of Holland collection LFW AW17
image: © House of Holland, photographer Mitchell Sams

As well as exceptional designer exhibitions, there has to be some collections which edge towards the extremities of fashion design. One of those is Laurence & Chico. The overall style consisted of very outlandish looking garments, which happened to be mostly oversized, with the exception of some form-fitting outfits. Ruffling, gathering and corseting are typical details within this collection. The main prints are a checkerboard style print, spots and illustrative print. The collection has a theme of being quite ‘granny-esque’. It seems that the designers have gathered inspiration for this set of outfits from night wear and home belongings. Most of the garments are extremely (and unnecessarily) bulky and have no aesthetic in the slightest. On the other hand, the print styles are lovely and have a kitsch feel to them.

The other designer collection from London Fashion Week this season that was not particularly tasteful was the exhibition of outfits by Maison the Faux. The overall theme of this collection was fairly revealing and just overall quite trashy. The fabrics used within the outfits consisted mainly of satin type fabrics as well as PVC, faux leather, faux fur and denim. This collection seems to have a Moschino/Jeremy Scott and Vivienne Westwood vibe to it with its overall eccentricity, as well as a 1980s punk-type feel. Corseting and exaggerated shaping seem to be common sights for Maison the Faux, as well as bold typefaces for the slogans printed onto some of the clothing. It appears to have an apparent theme of ‘gender bending’ and unisex designs are featured. Their main colours are warmer tones, such as bright oranges and reds as well as beige and navy.

Did these designer collections also manage to fit in with the current fashion trends of today? It appears so, due to the subtle corseting on some of the designs from the Laurence & Chico exhibition. The Maison the Faux collection featured a lot of faux fur (of course), with a strong punk vibe to the clothes featured. This collection was my least favourite of the last two reviewed, overall.

London Fashion Week is on again in September, showing their Spring / Summer 2018 exhibitions. Can't wait!

Isabelle Herring, March 2017

If you liked this, you will enjoy these from Isabelle too:
     Cardiff Fashion Week 2016; December 2016
     Cardiff Fashion Week 2016 preview; September 2016

     Role models, September 2016
     Fashion Week Australia S/S 2016, June 2016
     New York Fashion Week F/W 2016; March 2016

     bloggers and vloggers; December 2015

     Review: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty; October 2015
     Festival essentials; June 2015

     New York Fashion Week F/W 2015; March 2015

     Does size really matter?; December 2014
     Looking for value?; September 2014

Isabelle blogs on fashion as Isabelle Rachel!

… and her other pages:
     Facebook: issy.herring
     Blog Facebook page: isabellerachelblog
     Twitter: @IssyHerring
     Instagram: issyherring
     Pinterest: issyherring


cylchgrawn Cymru Culture magazine
Published by/Cyhoeddwyd gan:
Caregos Cyf., 2017

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