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Review: The Lighthouse Kitchen, Tenby

(September 01, 2017)

Review: The Lighthouse Kitchen, Tenby

The Lighthouse Kitchen, Dinbych y Pysgod

Although only opened at the beginning of 2016, The Lighthouse Kitchen, in the heart of the old walled-town of Tenby, has quickly become one of our favourite Dinbych y Pysgod establishments. With the friendly, informal look and ambiance of a bistro, the food is excellent. Everything is seasonal, fresh, locally-sourced (often hyper-local) and freshly cooked. Restaurants are increasingly using seasonal and local produce... and earning plaudits, awards and excellent reviews as a result. As trends go, you can't fault it.

We visit Tenby many times during the year (for both long and short stays), and are increasingly impressed with the range of quality restaurants available; new establishments are being introduced each season. The range of quality dining experiences is part of the reason why we visit Tenby so regularly, even though this means missing visits to other excellent eateries nearby such as The Grove, Arberth and Coast, Saundersfoot. Other excellent Tenby restaurants include The Plantagenet (my absolute favourite restaurant anywhere), The Blue Ball, and Mykanos – to name but a few.

For starters, I had the seared scallops with pancetta and pea purée. I have ordered and enjoyed this dish before, and enjoyed this starter as much on this occasion as on the last. My partner ordered the same, but without the pancetta (as he is does not eat meat). It's always an indication of how freshly prepared a restaurant's food is if you can request small menu changes. Here it was no problem at all.

Seared scallops with pancetta and pea purée starter, at Lighthouse KitchenSeared scallops with pancetta and pea purée starter

For my main, I had the slow cooked beef (another dish I have thoroughly enjoyed before and was delighted to see on the menu again), which was melt in the mouth and very moreish, with a rich and reduced gravy, served on a bed of buttery mash. Out of sheer greed I could have easily eaten another plate full!

Lighthouse Kitchen 2
Main course: slow cooked beef

Lighthouse Kitchen 3
Main course: slow cooked beef, on buttery mash

For his main course my partner had seabass with samphire and mash, floating in a herb butter – which he really enjoyed.

Seabass with samphire and mash, Lighthouse KitchenMain course: seabass with samphire and mash

Service was very polite and usually attentive… our only criticism was that when ordering glasses of wine to specifically accompany different courses (and making this clear at the time of ordering), the second glasses of wine had to be requested and came some time after our main courses were served. Although this will not put us off visiting again, it is something that the proprietors need to be aware of.

The wine list is well selected - exactly what we wanted - and the white wines served perfectly chilled. The bottles beers are predominantly from Welsh breweries, a lager from the excellent Gower Brewery and, in keeping with The Lighthouse Kitchen's hyper-local ethos, three beers from the Tenby Brewing Company, and one from Tenby Harbour Brewery, brewed about 200 yards away! Their ciders too, all are Welsh: Tomos Wakin; Gwynt y Ddraig; and Gethins Pembrokeshire (a new one on me). Proof positive they are practicing what the preach about local sourcing.

Impressive stuff. See you again soon.

Claire Meredith, September 2017

The Lighthouse Kitchen
Vernon House
St Julian's Street
Dinbych y Pysgod
Sir Benfro
SA70 7AS

Phone/Ffôn: 01834 844555

More hotel and restaurant reviews by Claire Meredith:


The Custom House, Penarth; September 2017
The Belle Vue Bistro, Swansea;June 2017

Gemelli, Newport; June 2017
The Potted Pig, Cardiff
; March 2017

Etc..., Penarth; March 2017
32 Townhouse, Arberth
; December 2016
The Star Inn, Treoes, Bro Morgannwg
; September 2016
Shore Kitchen, Y Mwmbwls
; September 2016

La Luna, Tonysguboriau; June 2016
La Trattoria, Tonysguboriau; June 2016
Junction 28, Newport
; March 2016

Y Talbot, Tregaron; September 2015
Manorhaus, Llangollen; June 2015
Ty Croeso, Crickhowell; December 2014
Ruthin Castle Hotel, Rhuthun; September 2014
The Manor Town House, Fishguard; June 2014
Llandeilo; December 2013
Tenby / Dinbych-y-pysgod; September 2013
The Old Chemist Inn, Saundersfoot; September 2013
The Bunch of Grapes, Pontypridd; September 2013
Gwesty'r Emlyn Hotel, Newcastle Emlyn; June 2013
Photographic study of Newcastle Emlyn; June 2013
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel; December 2012
The Drawing Room, nr Builth Wells; December 2012
3 Pen Cei Guest House, Aberaeron; June 2012
Escape 5* B&B, Llandudno; June 2012
The Bunch of Grapes, Pontypridd; June 2012
Photographic study of Myddfai; February 2011
The Crown at Whitebrook; February 2011
The New White Lion, Llandovery; February 2011
Ty Mawr Mansion Country House, Cilcennin, Lampeter; December 2009
George Thomas Hospice 'Style In the City' event; May 2009

cylchgrawn Cymru Culture magazine
Published by/Cyhoeddwyd gan: Caregos Cyf., 2017

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